View Full Version : A Different Mounting Concept
Went to mount my solar array today, used to keep my trolling motor battery topped up, and wasnt happy with the thought of using self tappers into the gunwale. Brain storm I own a heli coil kit containing stainless steel coils, worked a treat.
Gravy
bloody great idea m8
why didnt i think of it
playing with the idea of blind threaded rivets-also called roof rivets
but i have helicoils and tool-heheeee problem helied
arrrrrrrrr have you taken up the floor yet. on my 4.1 the bolts are threaded strait into the plastic
P.S. self tappers do hold very well in the plastic
2thumbsup Paul 2thumbsup
poly
my floors the same- and i hate it- call me old fashioned but i wuld ahve liked stainlees bolt into stainless receiver
i have decided lifting 6 bolts every time i need to get blood out
is not good enough (ms wanna eat fish but dont want boat to smell like it)
i am installing some stainless cam fasteners will post a pic when finished
flick 2 cams floor out -flick back in again
Any one tried the white plastic plugs (spreading type not spaghetti) that u get with TV wall mount kits that normally get substituted with Dynabolts?
poly
my floors the same- and i hate it- call me old fashioned but i wuld ahve liked stainlees bolt into stainless receiver
i have decided lifting 6 bolts every time i need to get blood out
is not good enough (ms wanna eat fish but dont want boat to smell like it)
i am installing some stainless cam fasteners will post a pic when finished
flick 2 cams floor out -flick back in again
that sounds like the way to go, but for the lighter jobs you can use stainless self tappers, just to give you an idea, it was all most impossible to get all 4 bolts in my boarding ladder so i used 2 bolts and 2 self tappers and they have held very well indeed
2thumbsup Paul 2thumbsup
mate open to suggestions(behave the ms says!)
love this forum cause some bastard has done it allready!
got some S/S self tappers ordered 16gauge x1/2 inch
shouldnt penetrate hull-using 6mm hdpe to make fixings
dive ladder i decided to go thru hull with bolts
now i need a sealant as i am not happy with sillicone\(does that sound like a lil elf)
what r u guys using?
lexel (think that's how you spell it) is what you need, and is the only thing that will seal and adhere to a poly.
Not easy to get so I'm told, The only place that i know of is polycraft, or you could try Glenn that's Bigfella on this site.
:D Paul:D
Pirate Pete
26-04-2010, 20:17
I have used Sellies All Clear on my 5.3 & it still seems to be stuck on after 1 1/2 years
Haven't used it but apparently the Sikkaflex range has a suitable product as well (you just need to check the specs to make sure you get the right one from what I have heard).
I have used Lexel in the past and found it good.
After speaking to the tech nerds on a couple of chemical company info-lines, the consensus seems to be that no product actually bonds to poly.
The only thing that will truly bond has solvents that are much too harsh for it to be of any use for our purposes.
In saying that, Lexel is as close as you will get to anything bonding with poly.
lexel (think that's how you spell it) is what you need, and is the only thing that will seal and adhere to a poly.
Not easy to get so I'm told, The only place that i know of is polycraft, or you could try Glenn that's Bigfella on this site.
:D Paul:D
Havent tested this, however on a Kayak Forum read that this product is available at Bunnings.
Gravy
You can certainly use SS self tappers straight into the poly. I have mounted my bimini and rocket launcher with them and there is no problem with them pulling out. Probably better than timber and there is a bit more flex in the poly
squizzytaylor
27-04-2010, 07:39
You can certainly use SS self tappers straight into the poly. I have mounted my bimini and rocket launcher with them and there is no problem with them pulling out. Probably better than timber and there is a bit more flex in the poly
x 2, I had near everything self tappered in place and never had issue, the only thing that I strongly recommend is to drill a pilot hole and lubricate with water before inserting the screw, I had found that the poly itself heats up a fair bit when blind screwing and it takes a while to cool down.
Geoff
Bunnings knows nothing about Lexel SURPRISE!!!
mob called PARCHEM is your friend select your location and off u go here is a link
http://www.parchem.com.au/TRADE/client/GeneralContent/c_singleDynamicPage.jsp?pageName=Australian Map
$13.99 a tube(CAULKING GUN SIZE)
Dave suggests SIKAFLEX
available from Bunnings- hate to give them the plug-hate bunnings
i reckon one should mix squid ink and salmon blood cause it stix like crazy to the hull
Complete link to find this product on the Parchem web site is;
http://www.parchem.com.au/CONSTRUCTION/client/ProductCatalogue/c_catalogueItem.jsp?pID=219&catID=281&prodID=247
I could not get their search engine to locate this product.
Gravy
mate give em a call if they have it in perth they must have it everywhere
if u cant source it let me know i will send u a tube on
G'day all, am loving this site more and more! Thanks to all for the heads up on the "Lexel" - have tried several adhesives/sealants and had bugger all success. Will chase some down soon and give it a go.
I am a bit jealous though of the blokes who can keep their floors screwed down. I reckon with the size of the Frontier (and no Im not bragging but not all boats are equal...) and the amount of movement of polyboats as they flex over waves the screws just weren't meant to stay in. We kept upgrading the size of the individual screws that were pulling out but eventually we accepted that it was one of the quirks of a Poly-tub.
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