4.50_Drifter
23-07-2010, 18:02
Okay, I figure that some of us have done a lot of fishing for specific fish, along the way we've probably picked up a trick or two. So, here's the first tip(s) from me, in relation to live-bait fishing for Macks, Jewfish, Cobia etc, and trolling for larger pelagics:
Trolling for Spanish Macks:
If trolling a spread, include one lure in the prop wash only about 10 metres behind the boat, often this is the first to get hit. Maybe this is due to the contrast between the lure colour and the white wash? Unsure but it works. I've tried different speeds and dead slow seems to be best, 2 or so knots. I like to put about 1-1.5kg of drag on my reel, that way they are more likely to get hooked. If you have hardly any drag then there will be slack in the line and the hooks won't set sometimes, try this by getting a mate to hold a rod, tie a loop in the line and put it around your finger, take line off the rod at different drag settings before pausing. Notice that the tighter drag (not too tight) makes the rod work and puts pressure on the loop when you stop. A softer drag, such as ratchet only on an overhead doesn't put much pressure, so sometimes the hook won't set properly.
I like shiny lures on bright days, it makes sense that the sun will hit the lure and make it flash. On dark days the contrast between a dark lure and the overcast sky is what gets it hits (in my opinion). Try having a swim with goggles or a mask sometime and hold your favourite lures above you and to the side of you. Bright day, bright lure especially gold, silver vibrant colours. Dull day, dull lure.
You can also motor quickly for a few seconds when you get a strike, or let the fish run for a few seconds before picking the rod out of the holder. A 1-1.5kg drag should set the hooks nicely, no need to strike afterwards, just pump and wind the fish. Remember that there is water pressure from the fish as well as the drag, so they should set.
Also notice that when you take the rod from the holder there is the potential for slack line, learn to take the rod out at a diagonal angle so the pressure stays on (minimal lift out of the holder, then straight back at a diagonal angle as if handing the rod to someone above and behind you). You can laugh if you want, this helps with keeping fish. Wind in as you lower the rod to a fighting postion to prevent slack line.
90 degree rod holders are better for trolling the two widest lures (if you don't have outriggers) as you can pull the rod out at around 90 degrees without putting slack into the line. Be careful of some of the cheaper plastic rod holders, make sure you have your rod/reel secured to the boat.
Spread your lures at different depths, sometimes Macks like a lure around 6-8 metres (use braid for greater depth), sometimes they like them about 1.5-2m from the surface. See what they are hitting on your spread then change the other lures to be the same. When you get a hit, hit the event marker on your GPS and troll back past it and around it again, try and work out why the fish where there and what the depth is in relation to the swimming depth of your lure.
Straight trolling is boring, every now and then do slight changes in your course to the port and starboard, just a slight turn of the wheel. This helps your lures speed up and slow down slightly and seems to interest Macks especially.
Where the fcuk is my rod? Get yourself some brass/stainless clips on a short length of fine rope/cord. Attach one end to the boat and the other to your expensive rod/reel. Then if something goes wrong, your rod will still be there when you turn around. These are easy to make from parts at any marine chandlery. Some of your mates may giggle in your general direction, until the day they lose a rod/reel.
Using dead-baits, no-one explains it as well as the Reefari guy on Youtube, so have a look at his vids sometime for wolf herring and garfish trolling. If you have a down-rigger then definitely put a bait at around 8-10 metres when trolling. I've heard that 8m is the magic mark, depends who you ask.
Live baits for Macks, Jewfish, Cobia, Barra etc:
Next time you throw out a live bait, try trimming it's tail fin so it doesn't swim properly, slightly injuring the fish like this seems to work well. Anyway, if you've put a big filthy hook through it, it's probably not going to live happily ever after anyway.
When using a float, I've gone from using baloons for livies to using polystyrene foam, as the polystyrene is easier to pick up once the bait has been hit. If the baloon pops due to water pressure etc, then chances are that some marine life might eat it and die, so I choose the foam instead. Before anyone says anything, yes i've tried using baloons that are tied around the line so they drift off etc, sometimes they just seem to pop anyway, so if you care about turtles etc use foam.
Um, okay. A couple of quick trolling/baiting tips that work really well for me.
Enjoy, looking forward to your tips.
Trolling for Spanish Macks:
If trolling a spread, include one lure in the prop wash only about 10 metres behind the boat, often this is the first to get hit. Maybe this is due to the contrast between the lure colour and the white wash? Unsure but it works. I've tried different speeds and dead slow seems to be best, 2 or so knots. I like to put about 1-1.5kg of drag on my reel, that way they are more likely to get hooked. If you have hardly any drag then there will be slack in the line and the hooks won't set sometimes, try this by getting a mate to hold a rod, tie a loop in the line and put it around your finger, take line off the rod at different drag settings before pausing. Notice that the tighter drag (not too tight) makes the rod work and puts pressure on the loop when you stop. A softer drag, such as ratchet only on an overhead doesn't put much pressure, so sometimes the hook won't set properly.
I like shiny lures on bright days, it makes sense that the sun will hit the lure and make it flash. On dark days the contrast between a dark lure and the overcast sky is what gets it hits (in my opinion). Try having a swim with goggles or a mask sometime and hold your favourite lures above you and to the side of you. Bright day, bright lure especially gold, silver vibrant colours. Dull day, dull lure.
You can also motor quickly for a few seconds when you get a strike, or let the fish run for a few seconds before picking the rod out of the holder. A 1-1.5kg drag should set the hooks nicely, no need to strike afterwards, just pump and wind the fish. Remember that there is water pressure from the fish as well as the drag, so they should set.
Also notice that when you take the rod from the holder there is the potential for slack line, learn to take the rod out at a diagonal angle so the pressure stays on (minimal lift out of the holder, then straight back at a diagonal angle as if handing the rod to someone above and behind you). You can laugh if you want, this helps with keeping fish. Wind in as you lower the rod to a fighting postion to prevent slack line.
90 degree rod holders are better for trolling the two widest lures (if you don't have outriggers) as you can pull the rod out at around 90 degrees without putting slack into the line. Be careful of some of the cheaper plastic rod holders, make sure you have your rod/reel secured to the boat.
Spread your lures at different depths, sometimes Macks like a lure around 6-8 metres (use braid for greater depth), sometimes they like them about 1.5-2m from the surface. See what they are hitting on your spread then change the other lures to be the same. When you get a hit, hit the event marker on your GPS and troll back past it and around it again, try and work out why the fish where there and what the depth is in relation to the swimming depth of your lure.
Straight trolling is boring, every now and then do slight changes in your course to the port and starboard, just a slight turn of the wheel. This helps your lures speed up and slow down slightly and seems to interest Macks especially.
Where the fcuk is my rod? Get yourself some brass/stainless clips on a short length of fine rope/cord. Attach one end to the boat and the other to your expensive rod/reel. Then if something goes wrong, your rod will still be there when you turn around. These are easy to make from parts at any marine chandlery. Some of your mates may giggle in your general direction, until the day they lose a rod/reel.
Using dead-baits, no-one explains it as well as the Reefari guy on Youtube, so have a look at his vids sometime for wolf herring and garfish trolling. If you have a down-rigger then definitely put a bait at around 8-10 metres when trolling. I've heard that 8m is the magic mark, depends who you ask.
Live baits for Macks, Jewfish, Cobia, Barra etc:
Next time you throw out a live bait, try trimming it's tail fin so it doesn't swim properly, slightly injuring the fish like this seems to work well. Anyway, if you've put a big filthy hook through it, it's probably not going to live happily ever after anyway.
When using a float, I've gone from using baloons for livies to using polystyrene foam, as the polystyrene is easier to pick up once the bait has been hit. If the baloon pops due to water pressure etc, then chances are that some marine life might eat it and die, so I choose the foam instead. Before anyone says anything, yes i've tried using baloons that are tied around the line so they drift off etc, sometimes they just seem to pop anyway, so if you care about turtles etc use foam.
Um, okay. A couple of quick trolling/baiting tips that work really well for me.
Enjoy, looking forward to your tips.